There was an Old Woman...

View from home

It is now a week since I returned home and I am already getting back into every day life. It has been very strange not getting on my bike each morning but as the weather has been so nice, I have been able to go out for some rides.

Below is a list that might be of interest, the first being the most important but otherwise in no particular order.

56 toilets achieved so far (and still aiming for 60)

1666 miles cycled
I can't count the number of wonderful and generous people I met
50 days away from home
3 travel days
7 days off
40 cycling days
43 different beds
Countless coffees drunk
3 or 4 dairy free cakes
Numerous bacon butties
8 ferries
1 flat tyre
1 new inner tube
1 set of new gears (worth every penny)
3 half days of rain when I was soaked through
Lots of sunny days
1 book carried that I never even opened
0 falls from bike
6 times the bike fell over

5 flies swallowed (I’m sure there a song about that!)

View from the kitchen

The trip has been a fantastic experience. The kindness and  generosity of so many people has made it extra special and something I will always remember.

A special thanks to all who have supported me -

  All who sponsored me
  The children of Lochdon Primary school who cheered me on my way
  Those who hosted me for the night
  All who cycled with me
  Everyone who left comments on the blog or who emailed me
  Those who greeted me on my return
  My long suffering husband Richard
  My brother John who kept my blog updated
  Seren from Toilet Twinning for the media publicity

All our efforts will be so appreciated by the recipients of the toilets, which will undoubtedly improve the quality of life for so many.

I will post again in a few days to keep you updated on the target of twinning 60 loos. I still really hope to get there.

You can donate to Toilet Twinning by clicking here

Austin 7

I woke up to a beautiful morning. From our bedroom window we had a clear view of Dunnet Head. It was hard to believe that this would be the last day of my trip as it doesn't feel like I have been on the road for seven weeks.

We stayed at The Hawthorns for the night I think it is the best bed and breakfast I have ever stayed in. Sadly Teresa and Andy are selling it, but on the plus side they are opening a Bistro in John O’Groats and the toilets there will be Twinned, which is one of the things that has helped to make the end of my trip very special.

So it was with mixed feelings that I set off for the last seven miles to John O’Groats, I wanted to make the most of every moment. I could have finished the ride the evening before but it had been very grey and dull. The sun was now shining and the sky was clear blue and I was glad I had waited. The road was quiet and flat and it wasn't long before I arrived at John O’Groats. After the obligatory photos by the John O’Groats sign I went into the Tourist Information to have my sheet stamped so I could register for the End to Enders club. We then found the unit that would be the Bistro with a Twinned toilet. There was still a lot of work to be done before it opens next Easter, but if it's as good as the Hawthorns it will be the best eatery at John O’Groats by far!

Teresa's camper van

Duncansby Head is about 3 miles further east than John o Groats so I had decided that that was where I would end my ride. It was along a single track road which went down a hill before the very last hill of the ride came into sight. It was with great sadness that I then dismantled my bike and loaded it into the car for the journey home.

Once everything was packed into the car we went to talk to a family who were at Duncansby Head in their Austin 7 Chummy. I would like to thank them for making the end of my trip very memorable.

Although I have now finished the ride I will be posting one more blog in a day or two with a few facts that might be of interest and of course the number of toilets that I have managed to twin.

You can donate to Toilet Twinning by clicking here

The Most Northerly Point

Day 48 Melvich - Mey. 37.28 miles

Dounreay

Richard and I both woke up early, but it took us a while before either of us would get out of our warm sleeping bags as it was so cold. This was not a bed and breakfast just a bed, but I knew I would need something to eat if I was going to cycle the 16 miles to Thurso. So breakfast consisted of Clootie Dumpling (thanks to Elizabeth in Inverness) a black banana and a cup of black tea. I was on the road by 8.10 it was too cold to hang around.

First sight of Dunnet Head through the haze

My route was easy now as it ran along the north coast of Scotland with one detour to Dunnet Head. Although I was cycling along an A road it wasn't too busy and I had views out to sea. It wasn't long before I could see the faint outline of Dunnet Head. After a few miles the road dropped down from the moor and there were trees and hedges again. I hadn't realised how much I had missed them. The weather looked threatening out towards the sea and I hoped that was where the rain would stay, but just as I passed Dounreay the heavens opened and I got a soaking. Fortunately it didn't last too long.

As the road drops down into Thurso it meets the A9 which come in from a junction on the left, with the road I was on having the right of way. I could see a large articulated lorry approaching the junction and had a feeling he wasn't going to stop. Sure enough without looking my way he pulled out. Fortunately I was paying attention and was able to brake in time, at which point when he was half way across the road he looked, saw me and also stopped.

After a coffee in Thurso it was only about another 10 miles to Dunnet Head. As the road passes Dunnet Bay it starts to head north and I was now heading into the wind again and would be until I reached the Head. But I made to the most Northerly point with just enough time for Richard to take a photo of me, before we both made a hasty retreat to the car to avoid the second downpour of the day. We sat in the car and ate some lunch. With the help of the wind the rain soon passed.

For the first time on this trip I would have been happy not to get back on my bike but the feeling, like the rain soon passed and I headed back the way I had come this time with the wind behind me! It wasn't long before I arrived at The Hawthorns in Mey where we had this time booked a bed for the night.

You can donate to Toilet Twinning by clicking here

Happy Days

Day 47. Crask Inn. - Melvick 45.58 miles

I left the Crask Inn with the intention of going as far as Bettyhill, about 30 miles away. After a short climb I then had a long stretch of down hill which continued as far as Altnaharra about 10 miles away. In all this time I didn't pass a single house, tree, sheep or cow, just open moorland. I then turned right and for 23 miles the road followed alongside Naver Loch and then Naver river. The moorland continued but there where now a few sheep. After I had cycled on this road for about two hours I met up with Richard for a brew before continuing to Bettyhill.

I reached Bettyhill by about 2 o’clock. It was like a ghost town as everything was closed including the hotel we had hoped to stay in. There was nothing for it but to continue, the next possible place was about another 10 miles along the road at Strathy. It was a long and tiring ride. I now had a cross wind and it was a long stretch of up hill. So I was not happy to find another ghost village, the Inn where we hoped to stay was shut up and the Bed and Breakfast next door looked it had like it had been abandoned although I think there was someone living there. So again I had to continue for a further 3 miles up the hill to Melvich.

Richard finally found a place to stay, the local inn had some chalets which we could stay in. We walked in and that was when I hit my all time low. The place was far from welcoming, it was cold and smelt damp, but at least it was clean and we could get a meal at the Inn. After I had showered and felt a little warmer, we headed for our meal. It was still early when we returned so we huddled up together on the hard plastic sofa with a duvet over our knees to keep warm and watched the television. We both decided to sleep in our sleeping bags as we thought we would be warmer.

Have You Seen my Husband?

Bonar Bridge - Crask Inn. 25 miles

Today was a relatively short day as I was only going as far as the Crask Inn. There were two reasons for this, the first being a lack of accommodation and the second being that a couple of weeks ago I had met a cyclist who had said that he would never pass the Crask Inn without stopping. I decided I had to see why.

Sometimes it pays to be dairy free

The day started very misty but by the time I was ready to leave the mist had began to lift. I arranged to meet Richard in Lairg, the only place en route that we might get a coffee. He then headed off to take some photos while I headed for Lairg. The road climbed gradually first alongside the Loch and then through open country. It wasn't long before I arrived in Lairg but there was no sign of Richard. I phoned him and he was still in Bonar Bridge!

There wasn't very much to Lairg but there was a coffee shop called The Pier which was next door to a Spar where I was able to buy some almond milk which meant I could have a cappuccino. The display of cakes looked delicious but were all unsuitable for me, but they offered to make me up a meringue with fruit coulis instead.

Two old birds

As I didn't have far to go we lingered over coffee then retraced our steps to see the Visitors Centre, before continuing along the route which went across moorland and through forests. It was a lovely road that was single track and very quiet and in 16 miles I only passed two houses.

The Inn stood on its own in the middle of a vast open landscape. Electricity was supplied by generator the water was from the burn and peats and logs burnt on the fire. Kai and Mike cooked evening meals for the guests from their own produce.

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Fallen Tree Causes Havoc to Cyclist's Coffee Break

Day 44. Inverness - Bonar Bridge    48.30 miles

I left Inverness just after 9 o'clock with a bar bag full of food, thanks to Elizabeth, which included a box of Clootie Dumpling she had made for me and a flask of coconut milk hot chocolate.

My first stop was just north of Dingwall where I had been told there was a good coffee shop. Although I was cycling along the A862 it wasn't too busy as most of the traffic was heading to Inverness. The views were across the Beauly Firth and then along Cromarty Firth towards the oil rigs.

The café I was heading for was on the A9 about five miles from Dingwall. There was a quiet road that ran parallel to the A9 and I’d been told there was a track off it that would take me down to the café. I found the track which run through a wood and was obviously not used very often. It wasn't long before my way was blocked by a fallen tree. Sadly there was no way around as to one side was a drop down to a river and the other had a fence. I turned back to the road, there would be no coffee stop today. But I did have the hot chocolate in my flask.

I found a bench outside a pub in Evanton and had my lunch and then oiled my chain before heading along the B9176 which took me over the heather moor to Struie. Someone had told me this was a long difficult hill and said it was much longer than the one out of Fort Augustus. I had resigned myself to a long walk, so was pleasantly surprised when I saw a sign that said 1 mile to view point and I was still on my bike. I stopped there and took the rather grey photo and then put more layers on ready for a long ride down to Bonar Bridge.

I only had the name of the Bed and Breakfast we were staying in as Richard had booked it. I had the choice of three roads but luckily chose the right one and arrived before the rain and before Richard.

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Taking it Easy in Inverness

Day 43 Inverness - a day off - 9th October

Elizabeth had kindly let me stay with her for two nights so I could have my last day off. This allowed me to do my washing and sort out a couple of things on the bike and then just relax.

Inverness

I had arranged to meet Sheila, who had recently moved to Inverness from Mull. We spent the whole day together, after coffee we went and found a cycle shop. I wanted to buy some covers for my cycle shoes as my feet had got very cold the previous day. We went for lunch at the Velocity café, a cycle workshop café which served excellent vegetarian food and also had a good choice of dairy free food, and a workshop that cyclists could use.

Shelia took me for a drive to her new home and then kindly drove me back to Elisabeth's house along part of the following days route.

I then had a relaxing evening watching a film with Elizabeth and her son Benedict (I did manage to stay awake for the whole film).

Uni cycle used to cycle Lands End to John O'Groats

Tomorrow (10th October) Richard will be joining me for the last few days. If all goes well I should reach Dunnet Head and John o Groats by next Wednesday. It is hard to believe that I have cycled so many miles. I hadn’t looked at the journey as a whole, just taking one day at a time. Each morning I look at the map and highlight my route for the day, so it has never seemed daunting as it was always only a days ride. It surprises me every time I look at a map and see where I have been and the miles I have covered.

I am not certain at the moment exactly how near my target of 60 toilet I am but I think it is in the region of 45. Thank you to everyone who has supported me I couldn't have got this far without you.

I Hate Gates

Day 42.  Laggan - Inverness   44.42 miles

The weather forecast was for rain all day and when I looked out of the window there was a fine mizzle and a grey sky so I started the day in waterproofs.

Having put some air in the front tyre, I left the hostel and headed for Fort Augustus along the Great Glen Way. This part of the way had just been upgraded for cycling and had a very good surface. But obviously someone who had never ridden a loaded bike had chosen the first two gates. The first one I came to was a large metal gate with a smaller opening in the middle that had to be stepped through and required lifting the bike over, but there was a small space to one side for a person to walk through. Both options involved taking the panniers off. This might sound easy but I can assure you it isn't and takes a certain amount of care or the bike will full over.

Once through the gate and reloaded I set off again, then 300 metres later I came to another gate and had to unload my bike yet again. It was then a lovely ride along the side of Loch Oich for about 4 miles to Oich bridge and yet another gate. This time it was at the top of a steep incline on loose gravel. It was all I could do just to keep the bike upright. The gate opened towards me and there was nowhere to stand the bike while I opened it. Fortunately the swing bridge operator saw my predicament and kindly came down and opened the gate for me. It was then a further six miles along the side of the Caledonian canal to Fort Augustus.

A walk in the rain

By now I was already quite wet and I knew that there was a steep climb ahead, so decided to stop for a coffee and to my surprise a dairy free cake.  The climb up the hill was as bad, if not worse, than predicted and I was soon pushing the bike. The hill continued for about four miles and l was only riding for about half a mile. Still not at the top, I stopped for a breather. An American in a car stopped to take a photo and I asked him how much further to the top, he replied about two miles and got back into his car. As he was about to drive away he wound his window down and called out, it gets much steeper.

Looking back

I finally saw a blue P sign for parking, this must mean there was a view point and maybe the top! It was then down hill all the way, well most of the way to Foyers where I knew there was a café. The rain had become a lot heavier and by the time I arrived at Foyers I was wet through and cold. I was so pleased to find that the café had soya milk and ordered a large hot chocolate. Tea just wouldn't have hit the spot.

Feeling slightly revived I put on another layer and the my wet jacket and set off again. I still had another 20 miles to Inverness along the side of Loch Ness. Sadly I didn't see the monster, in fact I didn't see much all day as the cloud was so low and obscured any views, but I did see five red squirrels.

I think the weather is clearing

I arrived at Elizabeth's house by about six o'clock. Once warmed with a cup of tea, a shower and a lovely dinner I was able to sit down and watch the final of Great British Bake Off before heading to bed.

Around 11 o'clock Elizabeth knocked on the door. She had heard there had been good sightings of the northern lights and was going out to see if she could see them. Unfortunately by the time we got there the show was over but the sky was definitely a shade of green and there where people wandering around in pyjamas and dressing gowns.

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Lochs and locked loos

Loch Linnhe

The Corran bunkhouse was unlike any bunkhouse I have ever stayed in. I had my own room with television and en suite, the kitchen was as good as mine at home and was very well equipped. So when it was raining the next morning it was very tempting to stay another night.

 Looking from Corran towards Ardgour

I had a choice of two roads, the A82 a very busy road or take the Corran ferry again and follow the quiter road to the north of Loch Linnhe, and then catch another ferry over to Fort William. I had decided to take the A82 until I spoke to a member of staff at the bunkhouse. He advised me to take the quiet option and said the traffic on the A82 was a very fast with lots of lorries and no space for passing. So I headed for the Corran ferry for the last time. I had allowed myself plenty of time to cycle the 11 miles to catch the 12.30 ferry, (the next one was 4.30). It turned out to be an easy ride and I arrived with an hour and a half to spare. I settled myself down in the bus shelter and made myself a coffee, grateful to have a flask.

The ferry terminal Camusnagaul

When the ferry arrived I had to unload my panniers and the bike was lifted onto the roof and tied on with a bit of baller twine around the pedal. It only took 10 minutes to get to Fort William and while my bike was being unloaded I asked how many bikes could be carried on the boat and was very surprised when he said 12. I was glad mine was the only one.

The Ferry

Once in Fort William I was heading for cycle route 78, again the signs were rubbish but I found my way by map reading. The start was at Neptune's Stair Case and went alongside the Caledonian canal for about ten miles. The surface on this stretch was probably the best of the whole tour, far better than the roads. But at the end of this stretch I had another decision to make, take the A82 or continue on route 78 which would be seven miles along forestry tracks.

Composting loo

I chose the tracks. At the start were notices with warnings that this was an isolated route and only to continue if properly equipped. The surface was solid with loose gravel, which was fine on the flat bits but as soon as there was any sort of hill my bike became unstable with the weight of the luggage, so I resorted to pushing, but this time for my own safety. In the middle of nowhere about half way along the seven miles stretch of forestry track there was a composting loo...very useful. It was locked! It was with some relief when I reached the end and was back on tarmac roads and only about another mile to the Great Glen Hostel and my bed for the night.

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Roller coaster Revisited

Day 40 Glenborrodale. - Corran. 32.05 miles

My bike needs a service!

Thank you Jenny and Dave for hosting me in your lovely home. There is a lovely view across the sea to Mull and Tobermory lighthouse. Having been to Ardnamurchan and being so close to Mull I would have loved to have gone home.

After a good breakfast which included grape juice pressed from home grown grapes and was delicious, I reloaded my bike. I was reluctant to start as I had to retrace my route back to Corran so I knew exactly what lay ahead. Sixteen miles of single track roller coaster road followed by a long drag through the glen. The forecast was for rain and easterly winds that I would have to cycle into.

My plan was to cycle as far as Strontian where I knew there was a café. But after only a few miles on the hilly single track road and the wind against me my hip was complaining. There always seemed to be a car coming towards every time I came down a hill where hoped for some momentum up the next hill, so again a lot of pushing was involved. When I got to Salen Jetty Shop I stopped for coffee. I'm glad I did, I had a cappuccino made with almond milk, and it was the best coffee I have had for ages!

Once refreshed I continued to Strontian another eight miles of hills and wind, and a plan was forming in my head to stop there for the night. After a cup of tea and a bowl of chips I went into the tourist information centre and booked a bed at Corran bunkhouse for the night, which gave me the incentive to cycle the next 12 miles through the glen. The road was very exposed so I could feel the full force of the wind, but the climb was gradual and once in a low gear I made slow progress without having to push. At least the promised rain was holding off. Going down the hill was equally as difficult l was still having to pedal hard, but at least I was now travelling at the great speed of 6 miles an hour.

It was with great relief when I arrived at Corran ferry and the bunkhouse was just across the Loch.

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The Most Westerly Point and onto the Home Leg

Day 38 Salen - Ardnamurchan - Glenborrodale. 43.31 miles

I left Salen just after 9 o'clock and hoped for a quiet road as it was Sunday and early, so I was surprised when there was a steady stream of cars coming towards me. The road continued to be a roller coaster ride but it was a beautiful day.

I had arranged to leave most of my luggage at Jenny and Dave's house, about 8 miles along the road and were I would be staying for the night. Once I had dropped it off progress was much easier.

Fog horn Ardnamurchan

Sian, Chris and Mary were joining me for the ride into Ardnamurchan. They had to come via the Loch Aline ferry as the Tobermory ferry has stopped running on Sundays. Sian and Chris had brought there bikes and would cycle with me from Kilchoan and back, this would give them enough time to return to the ferry.

Before we set off for the final 6 miles to the point we all enjoyed a coffee and cake in the Craft café. Sian, Chris and I set off on our bikes, Mary would follow in her car. When we arrived we had a photo call, although we couldn't find anything that marked the most Westerly point, so used the lighthouse.

We went into the café for a well earned cup of tea. I was surprised when the girl who was serving congratulated me and I wondered how she knew. I then noticed the banner that she had been asked to put up. It had been too windy to hang outside. Thank you so much to the people who had made and arranged this (I think I know who made it but can't be certain).

Having refueled we headed back to Kilchoan into the wind. It was difficult to say goodbye but had been a lovely day and it was so nice to have friends to share the most Westerly point.

I could see their car disappear up the hill which took them about 3 minutes,

Looking towards Mull

and I wondered how long it would take me to get to the same point. I was surprised that only 10 minutes later I was at the same spot. The road was a long steady climb up and a lot of the time into my enemy, the wind. Only once did the combination of wind, bad road surface and my knees get the better of me and I pushed. I was very pleased when I finally saw the turning for Jenny and Dave's house.

On Friday when I was cycling to through Glencoe, John (my brother) had said that this would probably be the most spectacular days cycling of the trip. He obviously hasn't cycled on the Ardnamurchan peninsula. It is stunning! Especially in the sun.

Looking towards Skye

Thank you to Mary, Sian and Chris for joining me and to who ever made and took the banner to Ardnamurchan. I am now heading north for the final leg of my journey.

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Don't Pay the Ferryman!

Day 37. Ballachulish. - Salen. 29.08 miles

After breakfast, Richard and I left the hotel and headed for the Corran ferry about 5 miles down the road. While I was taking the ferry, Richard would be heading back to Oban but hopefully to rejoin me in a few days.

The ferry men were very grumpy. Having been signaled to go down to the ferry I was then told off for walking down when the traffic was loading, still at least bikes and pedestrians were free.

Looking back up the Glen

Having looked at the map I had seen that for a good part of the day I would be cycling beside a Loch and I knew I was only going about 30 miles so I thought it would be an easy ride. How wrong I was!

For the first few miles it was very easy, but as I approached Glen Tarbert I could see the road beginning to rise, so decided it would be a good time for a coffee, this time from a flask by the roadside. Once fortified I started to climb up through the Glen. This wasn't a problem with my new gears but the road was very quiet and the complete opposite of Glencoe. I arrived at  Strontian were to my surprise there was a café but I had already had my coffee, so I sat in the bus shelter and had some lunch.

I had less than 15 miles to go and it was alongside the Loch. That was when the roller coaster ride began and continued for most of the way. To begin with I managed okay, but there was never enough time down hill to recover before the road was going up again. Even with the extra gears there were still a couple of times when I had to resort to pushing the bike as my legs were complaining! Getting off the bike when half way up a hill is a skill. First of all I have to choose somewhere that is not too steep, and I then have to step through. The problem is the bar is slightly too high for me to do this with ease and with all the weight on the back keeping the bike upright can be very difficult and if I'm not careful will end up in a heap on the road with my bike on top of me. So far this hasn't happened, but there have been a few times when this could easily have happened.

Petrol station Strontian

But I did arrive in Salen in one piece, if a little a little tired. I think the worst bit is that I know the road will continue like this for sometime and then I have to come back along the same road on Monday. Still, at least I now know where there is a coffee shop. I hope it is open on a Monday.

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Where's That Cyclist?

Day 36. Crianlarich - Ballachulish 40.09 miles

I left Crianlarich with a lighter load, just carrying the essentials like spares for the bike, extra clothes in case it got colder and jelly babies. Richard had the rest of my stuff in the car as he would be following me.

The five miles to Tyndrum was soon covered and after a quick stop to take some layers off before I started going upwards. I took the road towards Glencoe, resisted the temptation to take the road to Oban and started climbing. I managed the hill without any trouble but stopped again at the top to put my jacket back on as it gets very cold when descending the hills.

It wasn't long before I arrived at the Bridge of Orchy where Richard and I had arranged to meet for, you've guest it, a cup of coffee. No cosy café here, just the hotel, but it was a very nice coffee.

Having arranged our next meeting point we both headed off. I soon came to a very long assent, I could see the cars zig zagging up and a car park at the top that was obviously a viewing point. I made it to the top with lower gears to spare and cycled into the car park where I could see our car and Richard with his binoculars watching towards the road I had just climbed. He looked very surprised to see me, he hadn't been looking at some interesting bird as I had thought, but for me. He had wanted to take a picture as I reached the top, so was disappointed to see me. Not the reception I had expected. Still there were bound to be more hills he could take a picture on.

The road climbed over Rannock Moor and as soon as I reached the top I could feel the wind blowing up the Glen and despite descending, I had to continue to peddle or the bike would had come to a halt.

After a lunch stop near Kings House Hotel I then descended into Glencoe. I had expected to pick up a bit of speed here but most of the time if I stopped peddling my maximum speed was 12 mph in to the wind. Still it gave me time to enjoy the view and watch out for pot holes.

This has been the most spectacular rides of the trip so far and could only have been improved if the traffic had been a lot lighter.

We stayed the night at Loch Leven Hotel, a lovely hotel in North Ballachulish with cheerful staff and great food. What luck that all the other places we had tried to book were either full or wouldn't take dogs.

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