Lochs and locked loos

Loch Linnhe

The Corran bunkhouse was unlike any bunkhouse I have ever stayed in. I had my own room with television and en suite, the kitchen was as good as mine at home and was very well equipped. So when it was raining the next morning it was very tempting to stay another night.

 Looking from Corran towards Ardgour

I had a choice of two roads, the A82 a very busy road or take the Corran ferry again and follow the quiter road to the north of Loch Linnhe, and then catch another ferry over to Fort William. I had decided to take the A82 until I spoke to a member of staff at the bunkhouse. He advised me to take the quiet option and said the traffic on the A82 was a very fast with lots of lorries and no space for passing. So I headed for the Corran ferry for the last time. I had allowed myself plenty of time to cycle the 11 miles to catch the 12.30 ferry, (the next one was 4.30). It turned out to be an easy ride and I arrived with an hour and a half to spare. I settled myself down in the bus shelter and made myself a coffee, grateful to have a flask.

The ferry terminal Camusnagaul

When the ferry arrived I had to unload my panniers and the bike was lifted onto the roof and tied on with a bit of baller twine around the pedal. It only took 10 minutes to get to Fort William and while my bike was being unloaded I asked how many bikes could be carried on the boat and was very surprised when he said 12. I was glad mine was the only one.

The Ferry

Once in Fort William I was heading for cycle route 78, again the signs were rubbish but I found my way by map reading. The start was at Neptune's Stair Case and went alongside the Caledonian canal for about ten miles. The surface on this stretch was probably the best of the whole tour, far better than the roads. But at the end of this stretch I had another decision to make, take the A82 or continue on route 78 which would be seven miles along forestry tracks.

Composting loo

I chose the tracks. At the start were notices with warnings that this was an isolated route and only to continue if properly equipped. The surface was solid with loose gravel, which was fine on the flat bits but as soon as there was any sort of hill my bike became unstable with the weight of the luggage, so I resorted to pushing, but this time for my own safety. In the middle of nowhere about half way along the seven miles stretch of forestry track there was a composting loo...very useful. It was locked! It was with some relief when I reached the end and was back on tarmac roads and only about another mile to the Great Glen Hostel and my bed for the night.

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Roller coaster Revisited

Day 40 Glenborrodale. - Corran. 32.05 miles

My bike needs a service!

Thank you Jenny and Dave for hosting me in your lovely home. There is a lovely view across the sea to Mull and Tobermory lighthouse. Having been to Ardnamurchan and being so close to Mull I would have loved to have gone home.

After a good breakfast which included grape juice pressed from home grown grapes and was delicious, I reloaded my bike. I was reluctant to start as I had to retrace my route back to Corran so I knew exactly what lay ahead. Sixteen miles of single track roller coaster road followed by a long drag through the glen. The forecast was for rain and easterly winds that I would have to cycle into.

My plan was to cycle as far as Strontian where I knew there was a café. But after only a few miles on the hilly single track road and the wind against me my hip was complaining. There always seemed to be a car coming towards every time I came down a hill where hoped for some momentum up the next hill, so again a lot of pushing was involved. When I got to Salen Jetty Shop I stopped for coffee. I'm glad I did, I had a cappuccino made with almond milk, and it was the best coffee I have had for ages!

Once refreshed I continued to Strontian another eight miles of hills and wind, and a plan was forming in my head to stop there for the night. After a cup of tea and a bowl of chips I went into the tourist information centre and booked a bed at Corran bunkhouse for the night, which gave me the incentive to cycle the next 12 miles through the glen. The road was very exposed so I could feel the full force of the wind, but the climb was gradual and once in a low gear I made slow progress without having to push. At least the promised rain was holding off. Going down the hill was equally as difficult l was still having to pedal hard, but at least I was now travelling at the great speed of 6 miles an hour.

It was with great relief when I arrived at Corran ferry and the bunkhouse was just across the Loch.

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The Most Westerly Point and onto the Home Leg

Day 38 Salen - Ardnamurchan - Glenborrodale. 43.31 miles

I left Salen just after 9 o'clock and hoped for a quiet road as it was Sunday and early, so I was surprised when there was a steady stream of cars coming towards me. The road continued to be a roller coaster ride but it was a beautiful day.

I had arranged to leave most of my luggage at Jenny and Dave's house, about 8 miles along the road and were I would be staying for the night. Once I had dropped it off progress was much easier.

Fog horn Ardnamurchan

Sian, Chris and Mary were joining me for the ride into Ardnamurchan. They had to come via the Loch Aline ferry as the Tobermory ferry has stopped running on Sundays. Sian and Chris had brought there bikes and would cycle with me from Kilchoan and back, this would give them enough time to return to the ferry.

Before we set off for the final 6 miles to the point we all enjoyed a coffee and cake in the Craft café. Sian, Chris and I set off on our bikes, Mary would follow in her car. When we arrived we had a photo call, although we couldn't find anything that marked the most Westerly point, so used the lighthouse.

We went into the café for a well earned cup of tea. I was surprised when the girl who was serving congratulated me and I wondered how she knew. I then noticed the banner that she had been asked to put up. It had been too windy to hang outside. Thank you so much to the people who had made and arranged this (I think I know who made it but can't be certain).

Having refueled we headed back to Kilchoan into the wind. It was difficult to say goodbye but had been a lovely day and it was so nice to have friends to share the most Westerly point.

I could see their car disappear up the hill which took them about 3 minutes,

Looking towards Mull

and I wondered how long it would take me to get to the same point. I was surprised that only 10 minutes later I was at the same spot. The road was a long steady climb up and a lot of the time into my enemy, the wind. Only once did the combination of wind, bad road surface and my knees get the better of me and I pushed. I was very pleased when I finally saw the turning for Jenny and Dave's house.

On Friday when I was cycling to through Glencoe, John (my brother) had said that this would probably be the most spectacular days cycling of the trip. He obviously hasn't cycled on the Ardnamurchan peninsula. It is stunning! Especially in the sun.

Looking towards Skye

Thank you to Mary, Sian and Chris for joining me and to who ever made and took the banner to Ardnamurchan. I am now heading north for the final leg of my journey.

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Don't Pay the Ferryman!

Day 37. Ballachulish. - Salen. 29.08 miles

After breakfast, Richard and I left the hotel and headed for the Corran ferry about 5 miles down the road. While I was taking the ferry, Richard would be heading back to Oban but hopefully to rejoin me in a few days.

The ferry men were very grumpy. Having been signaled to go down to the ferry I was then told off for walking down when the traffic was loading, still at least bikes and pedestrians were free.

Looking back up the Glen

Having looked at the map I had seen that for a good part of the day I would be cycling beside a Loch and I knew I was only going about 30 miles so I thought it would be an easy ride. How wrong I was!

For the first few miles it was very easy, but as I approached Glen Tarbert I could see the road beginning to rise, so decided it would be a good time for a coffee, this time from a flask by the roadside. Once fortified I started to climb up through the Glen. This wasn't a problem with my new gears but the road was very quiet and the complete opposite of Glencoe. I arrived at  Strontian were to my surprise there was a café but I had already had my coffee, so I sat in the bus shelter and had some lunch.

I had less than 15 miles to go and it was alongside the Loch. That was when the roller coaster ride began and continued for most of the way. To begin with I managed okay, but there was never enough time down hill to recover before the road was going up again. Even with the extra gears there were still a couple of times when I had to resort to pushing the bike as my legs were complaining! Getting off the bike when half way up a hill is a skill. First of all I have to choose somewhere that is not too steep, and I then have to step through. The problem is the bar is slightly too high for me to do this with ease and with all the weight on the back keeping the bike upright can be very difficult and if I'm not careful will end up in a heap on the road with my bike on top of me. So far this hasn't happened, but there have been a few times when this could easily have happened.

Petrol station Strontian

But I did arrive in Salen in one piece, if a little a little tired. I think the worst bit is that I know the road will continue like this for sometime and then I have to come back along the same road on Monday. Still, at least I now know where there is a coffee shop. I hope it is open on a Monday.

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Where's That Cyclist?

Day 36. Crianlarich - Ballachulish 40.09 miles

I left Crianlarich with a lighter load, just carrying the essentials like spares for the bike, extra clothes in case it got colder and jelly babies. Richard had the rest of my stuff in the car as he would be following me.

The five miles to Tyndrum was soon covered and after a quick stop to take some layers off before I started going upwards. I took the road towards Glencoe, resisted the temptation to take the road to Oban and started climbing. I managed the hill without any trouble but stopped again at the top to put my jacket back on as it gets very cold when descending the hills.

It wasn't long before I arrived at the Bridge of Orchy where Richard and I had arranged to meet for, you've guest it, a cup of coffee. No cosy café here, just the hotel, but it was a very nice coffee.

Having arranged our next meeting point we both headed off. I soon came to a very long assent, I could see the cars zig zagging up and a car park at the top that was obviously a viewing point. I made it to the top with lower gears to spare and cycled into the car park where I could see our car and Richard with his binoculars watching towards the road I had just climbed. He looked very surprised to see me, he hadn't been looking at some interesting bird as I had thought, but for me. He had wanted to take a picture as I reached the top, so was disappointed to see me. Not the reception I had expected. Still there were bound to be more hills he could take a picture on.

The road climbed over Rannock Moor and as soon as I reached the top I could feel the wind blowing up the Glen and despite descending, I had to continue to peddle or the bike would had come to a halt.

After a lunch stop near Kings House Hotel I then descended into Glencoe. I had expected to pick up a bit of speed here but most of the time if I stopped peddling my maximum speed was 12 mph in to the wind. Still it gave me time to enjoy the view and watch out for pot holes.

This has been the most spectacular rides of the trip so far and could only have been improved if the traffic had been a lot lighter.

We stayed the night at Loch Leven Hotel, a lovely hotel in North Ballachulish with cheerful staff and great food. What luck that all the other places we had tried to book were either full or wouldn't take dogs.

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It's a Day Off. I'm not writing...You Can't Make Me!

Day 36  Day off - 0 miles

Chilled out all day. Even my bike had a lovely day off stored in the drying room!

My new wheels

Loch Earn

M

Tartan Buffs

Richard making a brew

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Coffee and cake...at last!

Day 35. Callander - Crianlarich 30.35 miles

Lochearnhead

It is lovely to have Richard with me for a few days. We had a very leisurely start to the day as breakfast wasn't served until 8.30 but I only had 30 miles to go and it was a beautiful day.

The first 20 miles would be off road along a disused railway line and then 10 miles along the A85. Sheila and Colin form Mull were going to join me on their bikes for part of the way. They had caught the 8.40 ferry and would drive up to where the trail met the road and then cycle towards me.

Sheila, Colin, Clootie, Bannock, Theo and me

The trail started almost opposite the guest house we had stayed in. I arranged to meet Richard in Strathyre where I would come close to the road, about 10 miles away.  It was a wonderful ride alongside a river and then Loch Lubnaig, it was very still and the reflections were stunning so I was in no hurry.

Viaduct on route Loch Lubnaig

Richard had bought a stove specially for the trip so we could have a brew, he had also bought some homemade cake. I had some coffee bags so for the first time on this trip it was coffee and cake!

We tried to arrange our next meeting point which was difficult as I didn't know exactly where the trial would meet the road. I set off knowing that I would meet Sheila and Colin within the next couple of miles. When I saw two people stop their bikes and take up their cameras I knew it must be them. After exchanging welcome hugs we got back on our bikes and continued along the trail. Shelia gave me warning of a very long steep hill that was to come, when we reached it Sheila and I got off our bikes and pushed and I was very glad I was not fully loaded. Colin cycled a little further but also joined us for the long push. Once at the top it was a flat ride all the way.

Arriving at the end of the trail where Sheila and Colin's car was park I had thought they would head off, so I was delighted when they said they would join me all the way to Crianlarich. After a rendezvous with Richard some lunch and a bit of bike care, Sheila and I started cycling while Colin took the car down to Crianlarich and then cycle back to meet us.

Before Sheila and Colin headed back for the ferry we enjoyed a cup of coffee and looked at maps and my route to come. But first it is a day off before I head up Glencoe.

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