Austin 7

I woke up to a beautiful morning. From our bedroom window we had a clear view of Dunnet Head. It was hard to believe that this would be the last day of my trip as it doesn't feel like I have been on the road for seven weeks.

We stayed at The Hawthorns for the night I think it is the best bed and breakfast I have ever stayed in. Sadly Teresa and Andy are selling it, but on the plus side they are opening a Bistro in John O’Groats and the toilets there will be Twinned, which is one of the things that has helped to make the end of my trip very special.

So it was with mixed feelings that I set off for the last seven miles to John O’Groats, I wanted to make the most of every moment. I could have finished the ride the evening before but it had been very grey and dull. The sun was now shining and the sky was clear blue and I was glad I had waited. The road was quiet and flat and it wasn't long before I arrived at John O’Groats. After the obligatory photos by the John O’Groats sign I went into the Tourist Information to have my sheet stamped so I could register for the End to Enders club. We then found the unit that would be the Bistro with a Twinned toilet. There was still a lot of work to be done before it opens next Easter, but if it's as good as the Hawthorns it will be the best eatery at John O’Groats by far!

Teresa's camper van

Duncansby Head is about 3 miles further east than John o Groats so I had decided that that was where I would end my ride. It was along a single track road which went down a hill before the very last hill of the ride came into sight. It was with great sadness that I then dismantled my bike and loaded it into the car for the journey home.

Once everything was packed into the car we went to talk to a family who were at Duncansby Head in their Austin 7 Chummy. I would like to thank them for making the end of my trip very memorable.

Although I have now finished the ride I will be posting one more blog in a day or two with a few facts that might be of interest and of course the number of toilets that I have managed to twin.

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The Most Northerly Point

Day 48 Melvich - Mey. 37.28 miles

Dounreay

Richard and I both woke up early, but it took us a while before either of us would get out of our warm sleeping bags as it was so cold. This was not a bed and breakfast just a bed, but I knew I would need something to eat if I was going to cycle the 16 miles to Thurso. So breakfast consisted of Clootie Dumpling (thanks to Elizabeth in Inverness) a black banana and a cup of black tea. I was on the road by 8.10 it was too cold to hang around.

First sight of Dunnet Head through the haze

My route was easy now as it ran along the north coast of Scotland with one detour to Dunnet Head. Although I was cycling along an A road it wasn't too busy and I had views out to sea. It wasn't long before I could see the faint outline of Dunnet Head. After a few miles the road dropped down from the moor and there were trees and hedges again. I hadn't realised how much I had missed them. The weather looked threatening out towards the sea and I hoped that was where the rain would stay, but just as I passed Dounreay the heavens opened and I got a soaking. Fortunately it didn't last too long.

As the road drops down into Thurso it meets the A9 which come in from a junction on the left, with the road I was on having the right of way. I could see a large articulated lorry approaching the junction and had a feeling he wasn't going to stop. Sure enough without looking my way he pulled out. Fortunately I was paying attention and was able to brake in time, at which point when he was half way across the road he looked, saw me and also stopped.

After a coffee in Thurso it was only about another 10 miles to Dunnet Head. As the road passes Dunnet Bay it starts to head north and I was now heading into the wind again and would be until I reached the Head. But I made to the most Northerly point with just enough time for Richard to take a photo of me, before we both made a hasty retreat to the car to avoid the second downpour of the day. We sat in the car and ate some lunch. With the help of the wind the rain soon passed.

For the first time on this trip I would have been happy not to get back on my bike but the feeling, like the rain soon passed and I headed back the way I had come this time with the wind behind me! It wasn't long before I arrived at The Hawthorns in Mey where we had this time booked a bed for the night.

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Happy Days

Day 47. Crask Inn. - Melvick 45.58 miles

I left the Crask Inn with the intention of going as far as Bettyhill, about 30 miles away. After a short climb I then had a long stretch of down hill which continued as far as Altnaharra about 10 miles away. In all this time I didn't pass a single house, tree, sheep or cow, just open moorland. I then turned right and for 23 miles the road followed alongside Naver Loch and then Naver river. The moorland continued but there where now a few sheep. After I had cycled on this road for about two hours I met up with Richard for a brew before continuing to Bettyhill.

I reached Bettyhill by about 2 o’clock. It was like a ghost town as everything was closed including the hotel we had hoped to stay in. There was nothing for it but to continue, the next possible place was about another 10 miles along the road at Strathy. It was a long and tiring ride. I now had a cross wind and it was a long stretch of up hill. So I was not happy to find another ghost village, the Inn where we hoped to stay was shut up and the Bed and Breakfast next door looked it had like it had been abandoned although I think there was someone living there. So again I had to continue for a further 3 miles up the hill to Melvich.

Richard finally found a place to stay, the local inn had some chalets which we could stay in. We walked in and that was when I hit my all time low. The place was far from welcoming, it was cold and smelt damp, but at least it was clean and we could get a meal at the Inn. After I had showered and felt a little warmer, we headed for our meal. It was still early when we returned so we huddled up together on the hard plastic sofa with a duvet over our knees to keep warm and watched the television. We both decided to sleep in our sleeping bags as we thought we would be warmer.

Have You Seen my Husband?

Bonar Bridge - Crask Inn. 25 miles

Today was a relatively short day as I was only going as far as the Crask Inn. There were two reasons for this, the first being a lack of accommodation and the second being that a couple of weeks ago I had met a cyclist who had said that he would never pass the Crask Inn without stopping. I decided I had to see why.

Sometimes it pays to be dairy free

The day started very misty but by the time I was ready to leave the mist had began to lift. I arranged to meet Richard in Lairg, the only place en route that we might get a coffee. He then headed off to take some photos while I headed for Lairg. The road climbed gradually first alongside the Loch and then through open country. It wasn't long before I arrived in Lairg but there was no sign of Richard. I phoned him and he was still in Bonar Bridge!

There wasn't very much to Lairg but there was a coffee shop called The Pier which was next door to a Spar where I was able to buy some almond milk which meant I could have a cappuccino. The display of cakes looked delicious but were all unsuitable for me, but they offered to make me up a meringue with fruit coulis instead.

Two old birds

As I didn't have far to go we lingered over coffee then retraced our steps to see the Visitors Centre, before continuing along the route which went across moorland and through forests. It was a lovely road that was single track and very quiet and in 16 miles I only passed two houses.

The Inn stood on its own in the middle of a vast open landscape. Electricity was supplied by generator the water was from the burn and peats and logs burnt on the fire. Kai and Mike cooked evening meals for the guests from their own produce.

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Fallen Tree Causes Havoc to Cyclist's Coffee Break

Day 44. Inverness - Bonar Bridge    48.30 miles

I left Inverness just after 9 o'clock with a bar bag full of food, thanks to Elizabeth, which included a box of Clootie Dumpling she had made for me and a flask of coconut milk hot chocolate.

My first stop was just north of Dingwall where I had been told there was a good coffee shop. Although I was cycling along the A862 it wasn't too busy as most of the traffic was heading to Inverness. The views were across the Beauly Firth and then along Cromarty Firth towards the oil rigs.

The café I was heading for was on the A9 about five miles from Dingwall. There was a quiet road that ran parallel to the A9 and I’d been told there was a track off it that would take me down to the café. I found the track which run through a wood and was obviously not used very often. It wasn't long before my way was blocked by a fallen tree. Sadly there was no way around as to one side was a drop down to a river and the other had a fence. I turned back to the road, there would be no coffee stop today. But I did have the hot chocolate in my flask.

I found a bench outside a pub in Evanton and had my lunch and then oiled my chain before heading along the B9176 which took me over the heather moor to Struie. Someone had told me this was a long difficult hill and said it was much longer than the one out of Fort Augustus. I had resigned myself to a long walk, so was pleasantly surprised when I saw a sign that said 1 mile to view point and I was still on my bike. I stopped there and took the rather grey photo and then put more layers on ready for a long ride down to Bonar Bridge.

I only had the name of the Bed and Breakfast we were staying in as Richard had booked it. I had the choice of three roads but luckily chose the right one and arrived before the rain and before Richard.

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Taking it Easy in Inverness

Day 43 Inverness - a day off - 9th October

Elizabeth had kindly let me stay with her for two nights so I could have my last day off. This allowed me to do my washing and sort out a couple of things on the bike and then just relax.

Inverness

I had arranged to meet Sheila, who had recently moved to Inverness from Mull. We spent the whole day together, after coffee we went and found a cycle shop. I wanted to buy some covers for my cycle shoes as my feet had got very cold the previous day. We went for lunch at the Velocity café, a cycle workshop café which served excellent vegetarian food and also had a good choice of dairy free food, and a workshop that cyclists could use.

Shelia took me for a drive to her new home and then kindly drove me back to Elisabeth's house along part of the following days route.

I then had a relaxing evening watching a film with Elizabeth and her son Benedict (I did manage to stay awake for the whole film).

Uni cycle used to cycle Lands End to John O'Groats

Tomorrow (10th October) Richard will be joining me for the last few days. If all goes well I should reach Dunnet Head and John o Groats by next Wednesday. It is hard to believe that I have cycled so many miles. I hadn’t looked at the journey as a whole, just taking one day at a time. Each morning I look at the map and highlight my route for the day, so it has never seemed daunting as it was always only a days ride. It surprises me every time I look at a map and see where I have been and the miles I have covered.

I am not certain at the moment exactly how near my target of 60 toilet I am but I think it is in the region of 45. Thank you to everyone who has supported me I couldn't have got this far without you.

I Hate Gates

Day 42.  Laggan - Inverness   44.42 miles

The weather forecast was for rain all day and when I looked out of the window there was a fine mizzle and a grey sky so I started the day in waterproofs.

Having put some air in the front tyre, I left the hostel and headed for Fort Augustus along the Great Glen Way. This part of the way had just been upgraded for cycling and had a very good surface. But obviously someone who had never ridden a loaded bike had chosen the first two gates. The first one I came to was a large metal gate with a smaller opening in the middle that had to be stepped through and required lifting the bike over, but there was a small space to one side for a person to walk through. Both options involved taking the panniers off. This might sound easy but I can assure you it isn't and takes a certain amount of care or the bike will full over.

Once through the gate and reloaded I set off again, then 300 metres later I came to another gate and had to unload my bike yet again. It was then a lovely ride along the side of Loch Oich for about 4 miles to Oich bridge and yet another gate. This time it was at the top of a steep incline on loose gravel. It was all I could do just to keep the bike upright. The gate opened towards me and there was nowhere to stand the bike while I opened it. Fortunately the swing bridge operator saw my predicament and kindly came down and opened the gate for me. It was then a further six miles along the side of the Caledonian canal to Fort Augustus.

A walk in the rain

By now I was already quite wet and I knew that there was a steep climb ahead, so decided to stop for a coffee and to my surprise a dairy free cake.  The climb up the hill was as bad, if not worse, than predicted and I was soon pushing the bike. The hill continued for about four miles and l was only riding for about half a mile. Still not at the top, I stopped for a breather. An American in a car stopped to take a photo and I asked him how much further to the top, he replied about two miles and got back into his car. As he was about to drive away he wound his window down and called out, it gets much steeper.

Looking back

I finally saw a blue P sign for parking, this must mean there was a view point and maybe the top! It was then down hill all the way, well most of the way to Foyers where I knew there was a café. The rain had become a lot heavier and by the time I arrived at Foyers I was wet through and cold. I was so pleased to find that the café had soya milk and ordered a large hot chocolate. Tea just wouldn't have hit the spot.

Feeling slightly revived I put on another layer and the my wet jacket and set off again. I still had another 20 miles to Inverness along the side of Loch Ness. Sadly I didn't see the monster, in fact I didn't see much all day as the cloud was so low and obscured any views, but I did see five red squirrels.

I think the weather is clearing

I arrived at Elizabeth's house by about six o'clock. Once warmed with a cup of tea, a shower and a lovely dinner I was able to sit down and watch the final of Great British Bake Off before heading to bed.

Around 11 o'clock Elizabeth knocked on the door. She had heard there had been good sightings of the northern lights and was going out to see if she could see them. Unfortunately by the time we got there the show was over but the sky was definitely a shade of green and there where people wandering around in pyjamas and dressing gowns.

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