I've got a husband!

Day 33 Falkirk to Callander 33.19 miles

Today would be the complete opposite to yesterday, there would be a lot of map

reading as I had to go through Falkirk and Stirling and I was now approaching the Trossacks so would have plenty of hills. Fortunately the night before Richard and I had looked at cycle street, (an app that showed cycle routes). He then kindly printed the route off for me.

Christmas has arrived in Stirling

It was very clear and I cycled through both towns without any problem but I did go slightly wrong as I approached the A84. I had to get across the motorway and the Forth river. The route passed through a car park were there was two possibilities, I only saw one, a car was parked in front of the other. So I took my bike over a very narrow bridge only just wide enough for my bike. On the far side there was a flight of steps as there was no room to turn the bike I bumped it down the steps hoping that it was the right way. I soon  discovered it wasn't and returned to the bridge. There was no way I could  get the bike up the steps without unloading it first, then carrying everything up the steps and reloading it, this was extremely difficult in the small space. Once back in the car park the car that had obscured the correct way had moved and I could clearly see the path that took me under the motorway.

Revived with lunch I continued the rest of the day without any problems and arrived in Callander by 3.30 where met up with Richard (my husband), who was joining me as back up for a few days.

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Forth Bridge

Path beside the Forth river and under the motorway

Metal work along the canal

Day 33 Edinburgh - Falkirk. 32.57 miles

I left Edinburgh in brilliant sunshine with Richard who kindly escorted me through the city to the start of the canal. It seemed hard to believe that this tow path would take me for 30 miles all the way to Falkirk.

For the first six miles the surface was tarmac with lots of people walking and cycling, but form then on it was more of a rough track, sometimes wide enough for two bikes to pass and at other times scarcely room for one.

Richard had told me that the only place where I might get a coffee would be at  a pub in Ratho about 10 miles along the tow path. So despite it hardly being open, the chairs were still on the tables, I stopped and was glad I did as it was another 15 miles before there was anywhere else.

Shortly after leaving Ratho I met Mary from Australia who had just started touring and was cycling route 1. I wish her luck in finding the way as she had already found out that the signs are not always what they should be, but at least she had GPS.

Cycling 30 miles along a flat tow path did at times become very boring, on the rough ground it wasn't possible to do more than 6 miles per hour and I went for long periods without seeing a soul. There were very few boats and the only excitement came when going under the bridges, many of which had uneven cobbled surfaces. After about 22 miles there was a Tearoom, however it was on the other side of the canal, there was a bridge but no way up to it. A little further on a small path had been worn through obviously by other people with the same intent as me in need of a cup of tea.

Once refreshed it was back to the tow path for the last eight miles. I and been told by Cath, my host for the night that I would come to a tunnel and once through she only lived minutes away. The tunnel is about a third of a mile long and cyclists are told to walk through it. I could see another cyclist coming through so waited before entering. She soon emerged. It was Fiona and she reassured me that it was possible to cycle through and quite safe as although the surface was cobbled and wet there was a rail between me and canal. I started off very nervously but soon gained confidence. It felt great when I finally reach the end I got off my bike and shouted back into the tunnel "l DID IT". So thank you Fiona and enjoy your trip.

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It's nice to have company...but not the midges

Day 32 Innerwick - Edinburgh 44.29 miles

As today was a shorter day I had a later start and decided to go to Quaker Meeting in Dunbar with Elisabeth and Rebecca before heading to Edinburgh. It was lovely to have an hour of silence knowing I had a day of busy roads ahead.

It was another beautiful sunny day so riding on busy roads didn't seem too bad but I did wonder where I was going to get my coffee from today. I needn't have worried as about 10 miles from Dunbar there was a garden centre. I  wasn't happy to leave my loaded bike outside as it was very busy so I decided to keep it with me and wheeled it through the shop. No one seemed to mind and I could enjoy a coffee without worrying.

If I hadn't seen the signs yesterday saying I was back in Scotland I'd have known because as I left the garden centre I cycled through clouds of midges. My glasses were covered with them and they were inside my helmet which made my head itch.

As I reached the coast road I met Jan, Margaret and Janet from Cardiff  who were touring the coastline of Britain. Each year they spent holidays adding different bits to the puzzle and this year they were cycling form Newcastle to Edinburgh. After a chat we all headed off in the same direction, I expected to be left behind as everyone seems to cycle faster than me. But to my surprise I kept up, so we cycled together for several miles along the coast. It was a real treat to have company. We stopped for a cup of tea near Prestonpans and then continued as far as Musselburgh were they were stopping for the night. Having made sure that I had picked up route 1 that would take me all the way to the centre of Edinburgh we parted company and I hope to see them again when they cycle the coast of Mull.

I followed the route 1 signs carefully but after some time I came across a direction post which pointed to Edinburgh in the direction I had come from. I retraced my steps back to a road and asked for directions, this time I followed the road and finally arrived at the A1 where I picked up route 1 again. I was now cycling along a disused railway line which took me the last 5 miles into the middle of Edinburgh from where it was easy to find Richards house where I would be staying for the night.

Since I arrived back in Scotland I have been thinking a lot about Mull, all my friends there and children at Lochdon Primary school. Next Sunday I should be at Ardnamurchan Point, the most Westerly point and so near home. I am really looking forward to seeing all those who are going to join me for this part of the journey, but will have to resist the temptation to get on the ferry and return to Mull with them.

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Crossing the Border

 Day 31 Wooler to Innerwick. 50.55 miles

Friday was a most welcome day off, especially as the wind was still blowing. I had the privilege to stay in a cabin which used to be the nurses accommodation for the isolation hospital that is now Eleanor and Geoff's house. I hadn't seen them for several years so we had a lot of catching up to do.

Border Crossing

Eleanor's Cabin

First thing in the morning we had a lovely walk on the moor with their 5 dogs. Then it was into Wooler for Eleanor to have her nails done. I have never seen nails being gelled before so went along for the entertainment, and found myself disappointed that I couldn't have mine done. I would have had them the same colour as my cycling shirt with bicycle wheels! Eleanor was the last person I would have expected to have her nails painted. As soon as we arrived back she went straight out in the garden to clean the chickens out and tend to the vegetables.

The following morning feeling rested I reloaded my bike to head for Dunbar. Today I would arrive back in Scotland!

My coffee this morning was going to be at the Chain Bridge Honey Farm, the last coffee I would have in England as the Chain bridge goes over the Tweed which is the boarder into Scotland.

Cycling today was so much easier, although there were still hills they were more gradual and the wind had dropped, so I made good time and thought I would arrive  by about 4.30. That was before I realised that the road would climb for about four miles, this was over a moor and passed a wind farm. I like wind turbines but the combination of the noise they make and the empty moor made for a very eerie feeling. Having climbed for such a long time the reward was great, a long ride down with wonderful views of the north sea coastline and towards the Bass rock.

The last few miles I had to pick my way though little lanes to avoid the A1 and I had a great feeling of relief as I cycled into Innerwick and I found Elisabeth's house and a warm welcome and a much needed cup of tea.

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Wonderful Hosts...Shame About the Wind

Day 28 - 29 Durham - Morpeth - Wooler 49.83 and 44.91 miles

Thank you Martin, Heather and Harry for hosting me for the night in 4 Star accommodation. I would have given you 5 stars if my bags had been carried to the top of the escarpment. However, having had a good breakfast I managed without any problem.

These things work well up here!

Today's route would take me through towns and cities and I had to cross two rivers, the Wear, which was crossed by a bridge and the Tyne which I would use the foot passenger ferry. Heather had suggested the castle route so from Durham to Sunderland. I cycled along the W2W route and then picked up route 1. Apart from ending in a farm yard at one point and then having to follow a muddy track through the woods, which needless to say was poorly signposted at that point, I found my way without getting lost. The route through Sunderland was lovely being off road for most of the time and we'll surfaced. The only problem was the squeeze stiles for bikes, which were too narrow for my handle bars and took a certain amount of skill to get through.

Once in the town I had to find the passenger ferry which had been well signposted up to this point. I asked a bus driver to direct me. While he was giving me lengthy instruction a spotted a finger post which said, ferry 300 metres, when I pointed it out to the driver he said, "oh yes it's just down there you can take your bike on there."

When boarding the ferry I was amused to see one of the cycle route 1 direction stickers on the doorway. During the ten minutes it took to get across the Tyne I chatted to a couple of cyclists who kindly showed me the way once we arrived in North Shields. It was then an easy ride along the coast for several miles before turning inland to Morpeth.

As I arrived in Morpeth I noticed a cycle shop and as my gears needed a bit of adjustment I decided to take it in. I met Kevin my host for the night who took my bags and put them in his car and I was then able to take the bike into the shop. It was put up onto a cycle stand and soon fixed, thank you.

Once I arrived at Kevin and Audrey's house I was waited on hand and foot and wasn't allowed to lift a finger, so I got my maps out and started planning a route for the following day that would take me to Wooler.

After supper we spent the evening chatting until I felt myself nodding off.

Having had a good nights sleep and a huge breakfast, which sadly I wasn't able to finish, I headed north for Wooler. I started the day on a real high. The sun was shinning the wind was behind me and the roads were smooth. It didn't last long. The sun continued to shine but after a few miles I had a strong cross wind and the road surface was rubbish. Three hours later I finally arrived in Alnwick and was more than ready for a coffee, and something to eat. Obtaining a coffee was easy and fortunately Kevin had given me several pieces of cake which raised my spirit.

Cycle route sign of ferry

Me with Audrey

I left Alnwick on what I thought was the road to Wooler and pushed my bike up the long hill into a head wind. Some two miles later and still pushing my bike most of the way I met some people walking their dog and after talking to them I realised that I was on the wrong road. Although I didn't have to retrace my steps I had gone out of my way, it was at this point that I hit an all time low and just wanted to give up and go home! I continued on up the hill and finally came to the turning that I needed and a down hill stretch, which didn't last long and I was soon pushing the bike again.

Once back on track I followed the main road for a while but was soon fed up with the heavy traffic so took a side road. This turned out to be the wrong decision as it was up and down the whole way and as soon as I was able, I returned to the main road.

I was pleased to arrive in Wooler in the knowledge that tomorrow was a day off.

I have been looking at my route for the next week and if all goes well and the wind drops as promised I should be arriving at Ardnamurchan on Sunday week for those of you who would like to join me. Don't expect me to me going at any speed!

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Back to the hills!

 Day 26 Thornton le Moor - Durham 45.81 miles

Today has been a hard day! Having been cycling for about five days where the biggest hills have been the bridges over railways and motorways I now hit real hills. I was either riding into the wind or it was cutting across me.

My new mirror

I was on my way by 08.35. The day started bright but cold and the roads were quiet. It was only 10 o'clock when I passed Kiplin Hall were the sign pointed to Gardens and Tearoom and as I wouldn't be passing through many villages I decided to stop. It was here that I was given my first warning of the hills that were to come.

At Scotch corner the A1 is being upgraded to motorway standard so even though I was on the quiet roads there were a lot of road works, heavy lorries and diversions to contend with.

Once past the A1, the next 10 - 15 miles were on a straight Roman road, although it was only a B road and not a lot of traffic, what there was passed fast! I managed the first five miles with relative ease which lulled me in to a false sense of security. So when I arrived at Piercebridge a pretty village with a café I stopped for lunch. Here I had my second warning of the hills to come, the owner told me she had used 1st gear to get a tractor and trailer up the hill and had still found it difficult! It looked like I would be pushing my bike again.

The warnings were right, it was a very long and in parts steep hill and with a cross wind I had to get off and push despite my new gears. I finally came to a down hill stretch but the road surface was so bad I still couldn't go above ten miles an hour for fear of hitting one of the pot holes and coming off.

When I finally got to Ferryhill I had to ring Martin, my host for the night who was kindly going to cycle out to meet me and guide me to his house. So after a couple more miles when I saw someone on a bike about to take my picture I have never been so pleased. The last couple of miles were not difficult but I was very tired and extremely thankful when we arrived. After a cup of tea and a wonderful bath I was revived and ready to catch up on emails and look at the route for the next day.

Only another 11 miles and I will have cycled 1000 miles!

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Makeup and a free butty

York - Thornton le Moor 43.97 miles

Before leaving York Bronwen took me to Cycle Heaven, a cycle shop not far from the house, as I had decided to buy a mirror for the bike. Not, as Richard suggested to do my make up as I rode along, but to see behind me as I had become increasing aware that I couldn't see when car were approaching.

A Twinned loo - note the photo at the top

When we arrived we were told that they weren't open until midday but as I wanted to be on the road this wouldn't be of much use to me. However when  the owner was told about my trip he took the bike in and kindly fitted the mirror for me.

Bronwen then kindly joined me for the first couple of miles through the city. We said our good bye's and I headed north, as I did so the rain which had started as we had left the house got steadily worse. Once again not only was I being rain on from above but was also being sprayed by every passing car and lorry. It wasn't long before I was soaked through and I realised that the waterproofs I was wearing weren't waterproof.

I decided that when I had cycled 15 miles I would look for somewhere to have a coffee, I kept spotting large signs in the distance that I thought might be garden centre but they were all places selling paving slaps or logs. A couple of miles further on I finally found a garden centre only to be told 'we did have a café but it closed a year ago.

About another four miles further on at the little village of Raskelf I finally saw a small sign which said village shop and cafe. I peddled faster through the village but there was no sign of the said café with a sinking heart I approach the end of the street and just as I was about to turn round I saw another sign directing me down a track to The Purple Partridge. The owners were lovely people who were happy for me to sit and steam, and drip all over the floor for the next hour while I drank two cups of coffee and of course a bacon butty, and then refused payment. Thank you.

By the time I had left The Purple Partridge the rain had eased a bit and the roads became quieter so less spray. But I can't tell you much about the scenery as my head was either down or looking in the mirror (but not doing my make up).

As I arrived at Thornton le Moor the sun was shinning and it was hard to believe that it had been such an awful morning.

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Room with a View

Day 24 Doncaster - York 47.23 miles

No bacon buttie today! I started the day with a full English breakfast as we had stayed at Balmoral House for the night, famous for the fact that it appeared in an episode of Open all Hours.

Fully fueled, John and I left Doncaster and headed for York. The first the miles were on A roads but being a Sunday they were quiet and it wasn't long before we were out of the city.

The roads were fairly flat but the surfaces were awful with lots of pot holes to avoid, it is surprising how much faster and easier it is to cycle on a good surface. We headed for Howden where we had arranged to meet Gerry for a coffee and found a cafe where we could sit outside in the sunshine. Once again only a black coffee for me.

Howden

From Howden the roads were quieter, although we did encounter a lot of farm vehicles all loaded with huge bales of straw, but they were quite enough for John to lie down in the road and take a photo of me cycling towards him or maybe he just wanted a rest!  We soon reached the outskirts of York and with John's good sense of direction found the city centre and the road out that we needed.

Bronwen, John (not my brother) and their children Rosie and Albie were kindly hosting me for the night and here I encountered my first Twinned Toilet!

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Company

Day 22 & 23 Kirkby Underwood - Lincoln - Doncaster. 44.53 & 49.92 miles

For the first time on this tour I was going to be cycling with someone for part of the day. I left Kirkby Underwood and cycled for about 10 miles to a prearranged place to meet Christie and Jeremy.

Jeremy was going to cycle with me on his electric Brompton, while Christie would follow in the car and meet us for coffee, or not as it happened she had stopped else where and had underestimated how quickly we would cycle.

The ride was a joy after the previous day across the fens. The road was gently rolling along the edge of the fens so there were trees, hedges and villages with huge churches built of stone so different from the flint churches of Norfolk.

Lincoln Cathedral detail

Christie had gone ahead after our coffee stop to find somewhere in Branston where we could have lunch. Branston is a reasonable size village about 5 or 6 miles from Lincoln and turned out to have just one cafe. It had been a lovely sunny day but started to rain just as we arrived and continued while we ate our bacon butties but stopped just before I set off again.

We parted company after lunch. It had been lovely having someone to cycle with for a few miles. While Christie and Jeremy headed home I headed for

Lincoln. Pete my Warm Showers host had told me about a cycle route alongside the river that would take me all the way to Lincoln. It didn't take long to find and I was soon there at the bottom of Steep Hill, a cobbled street that would take me up to the cathedral. I decided this was not the place to try out my new gears!

Four Points cake made by Cathy

When I arrived at the cathedral there was a service in progress so I sat on the steps and listened to the singing of Jerusalem. I then headed off to find Ben and Ruth's house on the north edge of the city. As luck would have it I had cycled out on the correct road and was soon knocking on their door.

Ben, Ruth and baby Odin were lovely hosts. After I’d had my shower and changed I came downstairs to find Ben making pasta for our dinner. Once again we found plenty to talk about and not just about bikes!

The following day I was going to be joined once again but this time with John (my brother) and Gerry. Having talked about routes with Ben who had told me there was only about three places to cross the River Trent, I had decided to take a cycle trail along an old railway line for about 10 miles. It was great to be cycling traffic free and best of all Gerry had found a cafe not far from the end of the trail. It was a pop up cafe that opened at weekends and this was only the third weekend. It was easy to find as it was well signposted. Once again I had a bacon buttie and a coffee.

Cycle track for thin people

The rest of our route to Doncaster was on roads that became increasingly busy as we approached the city. John had booked us into a bed and breakfast that was close to the hospital, so it was easy to find. This area is a maze of busy A roads and the route to York will be on busy roads for a good part of the way, at least it will be Sunday.

20 Toilets Twinned and 40 To Go

Day 21 kings Lynn to Kirkby Underwood - 59.29 miles

I am now over a third of the way through my tour and I would like to say a big thank you to everyone who has donated to Toilet Twinning. I haven't got an accurate count of toilets yet but I do know that is now over 20, so I am on target for 60 toilets. The picture is of Mairi's toilet which was the first one that was twinned.

Toilet Duck

I left Kings Lynn a bit later than I had hoped for as Tony didn't finish the bike until about 11 o'clock, but it was worth the wait as I now have lower gears. The saddle and handle bars have also been slightly adjusted and tyre pressures checked which will make for a more comfortable ride. I loved my bike before but I love it even more now!

Mark kindly cycled with me as far as the bridge over the Great Ouse, to guide me on a route that avoided the town centre. Thank you Mark.

The first 10 miles or so as far as Sutton bridge were covered fairly quickly as there was a bit of shelter from the wind. But once over the Nene the landscape opened out and I could feel the head winds.

Sutton Bridge

Once into Fenlands there was no escaping the westerly wind as the landscape is very flat with enormous fields, and very few trees or hedges. I headed for Spalding then Pinchbeck. There were no hills but I rarely got out of 3rd gear. The worse bit was the road from Risegate to Dowsby a 5 mile very straight stretch of road across the fen with very few houses and nothing but fields, many growing cabbages and still into a head wind. Eventually on the horizon I could see trees and a hill, what joy!

By the time I arrive at my destination my legs were struggling to keep turning the pedals and I don't think I have ever been more pleased to arrive and get off the bike.

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Time to relax

Day 20 Fakenham to Kings Lynn 27.26 miles

Mairi on Teri and Brian's new extension

I had a lovely day off. Having sorted out my washing and beds for the next few days there was some time to relax. Teri, Mairi and Matilda took me out for a hot chocolate. All I know is that the place was called Back to the Garden and it took us about 20 minutes to get there by the car. As well as the coffee shop there was a lovely farm shop where we bought some lunch and I bought a very expensive tub of dairy free ice cream (which was worth every penny).

A thing that nobody should be without

After Mairi and Matilda left, I enjoyed a snooze and then Teri and I went in to Fakenham so I could get a few bits of shopping. I then went to join the Mairi and the family for supper.

I had been watching the weather as it was promising to be bad for the next few days and I was wondering about taking another day off. Thursday forecast was for westerly winds which would make cycling 60 miles over the fens very tiring. I made the decision for a short day on Wednesday to Kings Lynn which would cut the Thursday ride down to about 40 miles which seemed more manageable.

Bike park

Fran and Mark who live in Kings Lynn kindly agreed to host me for the night. So Wednesday was a very leisurely ride, and a beautiful day nothing like what had been forecast.

It was very fortuitous that I was to spend the night here, as Fran had seen the blog about my desire to have some lower gears fitted to the bike. Only a few doors down there was a bike shop, and having spoken to Tony I took the decision to go ahead. Hopefully as I write this they are being fitted and I should soon be on the road again with lower gears that will make the hills more manageable.

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Carrying Heavy Bags is a Piece of Cake

Day 18 Winterton-on-Sea

No pictures today so here is another picture taken from the lovely Ness Point.

I sat and watched the rain as I ate a very hearty breakfast, well how could I pass on a full English breakfast, I am cycling! I hoped that by the time I was ready to leave it would have stopped, it hadn't. So I found my waterproof trousers for the first time this trip and put them on.

For the first 30 or so miles I was cycling on A and B roads and although they weren't busy there was a lot of surface water, so not only was I getting wet from above I was also being soaked from the side.

I try and stop for a coffee each morning after I have been on the road for about a couple of hours, so when I arrived at Coltishall and found a cafe called A Piece of Cake, I had to stop. I ordered a black coffee and asked for a dairy free cake. They had nothing. Good job I had a chunk of fruit cake in my bag!

Having had my coffee and taken my over trousers off I continued on my way and of course it started to rain again.

I had arranged to meet Cath for lunch at Cawston. While Cath parked the car I headed for the church porch, always a good bet when it is raining. Cath arrived with three bags, almost as much as I was was carrying for my whole trip. We ate our lunch and I hoped that Cath would produce a cake from one of her bags but sadly she didn't.  Good job I had another chunk of fruit cake in my bag!

I continued on my ride through Norfolk. If anyone tells you that Norfolk is flat don't believe them, it's not. My knees will tell you a completely different story! Yesterday John had been talking to me about changing my gears for some lower ones and as I rode up the hills I started to fantasize about how soon I might be able to do this. Maybe I'll take a day off in York as I think there is a good bike shop there.

I arrived safely in Fakenham and tomorrow is another day off.

Turning Point

Day 16 - 17 Thurston - Southwold - Winterton-on-sea 52.98 & 36.07 miles

Thank you to Ian and Clare from Warm Showers who put me up on Friday night despite being out for the evening. After my warm shower I went in search of supper in the form of fish and chips, and then spent the evening vegging out.

Loo of the day

Before leaving, Ian provided me with a good breakfast and a loan of some OS maps. Having first mapped out a good route to Southwold, he then joined me for the first six miles making sure I was on the right road.

I had one of my best rides so far, the roads were gently rolling past flint churches and pretty villages, but best of all the wind had changed direction and although it still wasn't a tail wind it was now only a cross wind.I saw lots of people on bikes and was asked several times if I was enjoying visiting the churches. When I arrived at Blyford I stopped to take a look and find out more. Four cyclists were just leaving and they told me that it was a yearly event of open churches in Suffolk and Norfolk. People cycled to as many churches as they wished to raise funds. I hope I've got that right. (I met two of the cyclists, Gwen and Chris, the next day. They had visited 24 churches).

Blyford Church

I arrived at Sarah's, my next Warm Shower host by about 4 o’clock. Once I’d changed we both headed off to the beach on our bikes for a birthday party. When Sarah's friend heard I was staying she invited me too. It was a lovely evening sitting in a beach hut watching beautiful skies and listening to the sound of the sea. We then had a bike light ride along the river to the harbour.

The following morning Sarah and I shared biking stories over breakfast and looked at my route for the day which would take me to Lowestoft, the most easterly point. She then came with me through quiet country lanes to get me past the A12.

Ness Point that way

The day started well, and thanks to Gwen, Chris and Emma who all helped me to find the way to Ness Point. I'm sure it would have taken a lot longer without them. Ness Point was very different to the Lizard but fortunately one person did pass by and took a picture of me.

I am still not sure which county Ness Point is in, as the boundary between Norfolk and Suffolk is the River Waveney and Ness Point is north of the river.

Ness Point

I then headed to The Crows Nest for a celebratory coffee and a bowl of chips. By the time I left it had started to rain. I managed to find my way out of Lowestoft and headed towards Great Yarmouth. I found my way through by keeping the sea on my right and heading north. This was not as easy as it sounds as there is a refinery between the sea and the road. It took me about an hour to get to the other side and was by now getting very wet and cold. I decided to cut my day short as I had no bed booked. So with Mairi and James help I found a B and B in Winterton-on-Sea. I was so pleased when I was shown my room and there was a bath, and it wasn' t long before I was dry and warm again.

The turning point

Fakenham tomorrow and then a day or maybe two off.